Bob, as far as torque specs on any ball-joint studs, the amount of torque is less important than the fact that they should have a cotter-pin inserted to mechanically lock the nut after its wrenched tight. The initial tightening jams the tapered stud into a matching tapered hole and this is what actually takes all the loads. So I tighten them "firmly" to set the stud, then either add or subtract torque to align one castellation to the drilled hole for the pin.
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