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Reply to "Confirmation on wheel backspacing and tire size before the credit card comes out. - Please don't ban me ;-)"

In back, the main interference is the edge of the rim vs the stud/washer/locking nut on the lower rear upright. Some giant Pantera-specific rear wheels are built with a second inset designed to allow that stud to ride inside the wheel's periphery. Running rear rotors on the outside of the wheel flanges shoves the wheel and tire outboard by the amount of the rotor and stub-axle flange thickness, too.  Trying to run 335-30 rear tires usually shortens the overall drive ratio enough to affect fuel mileage, attainable top end and other things. When you lower the front to visually match, it affects bump-steer unless you address that, too.

Big aftermarket wheels are HEAVY, too since they are made of denser aluminum instead of stock magnesium, so readjust your rear shocks & maybe the springs accordingly on those necessary coil-overs.  And keep in mind the requirement for both tire outside diameters to be within specs to keep from wearing those delicate limited slip clutches from differential wheel speeds. Try to choose tires with close to 26.8" OD so the speedo and odometer read correctly.

Finally, the wider the rear tires, the more critical rear wheel alignment becomes- especially camber. Ultra-wide tires need far less toe-in and camber for good handling, due to the tire rubber's compliance. And nothing detracts from the impressive look of giant rear tires quite as much as cord showing on the inside edges of those expensive meats from running excess camber. They are visible to drivers behind you- including overzealous cops looking for an excuse to "talk" to you! All this stuff is fixable but it will drain your 'discretionary income'.

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