Instead of modifying the module wiring, you'll make two changes at the 4 pin connector on the harness side of the wiring. Plus a third change to the harness in how its powered, and a modification to the new Duraspark I coil. I helped my buddy Doug do it just a couple of months ago. We used the "Painless Wiring" wiring harness. Here's a bit more detail:
- The green wire & orange wire positions in the 4 pin connector must be swapped.
- The "key tab" of the 4 pin harness connector must be cut-off because the 4 pin socket of the Duraspark I module is keyed differently.
- The alignment lug on the tower of the Duraspark I coil must be trimmed-off to allow the Duraspark II horseshoe shaped coil connector to slide on.
- Remove any and all ballast resistance. The Duraspark I coil operates on full voltage.
Plus we ended up removing a few wires from the harness altogether. It was the first time I ever did this ignition installation using the Painless wiring harness. In the past I've always just pulled a wiring harness from a car at the wrecking yard. It was pretty straight forward for me, although Doug was a bit nervous when we started removing wires from the harness. But that nervousness came to an end the first time the engine fired-up. If you're not used to a Duraspark I ignition, the engine starts almost instantaneously, and idles very strong & smoothly. Doug was quite pleased.
Just remember the Duraspark I module must be used in conjunction with the dedicated Duraspark I coil. The plugs can be gapped an extra 0.010" wider (0.060"). Try to find a new old stock module in which the backside of the module is sealed with an amber colored opaque material. Anything made in the US should be OK.