Reply to "Coolant Weeping Past Head Gasket"

A few things which may be of use. NAPA carries carbon impression paper
that can be put between the head and block to see if your head and block
are sufficiently flat to ensure a good seal. When using premium multi-layer
steel gaskets, a finish of 15 microinches Ra or less is recommended.

For head gaksets, I like the Victor Reinz 3502SG (for 351C). It's their
nitroseal material (graphite on a steel core). No sealer or re-torque
required. They were $50 each last time I bought a pair. Don't confuse
the 3502SG with their rebuilder type head gasket (paper mesh on steel core)
which is Victor Reinz 3502 without the SG. Victor also has a headgasket for
higher cylinder pressures (nitrous or boost), p/n 3446 for 351Cs but I've
not used any of those.

What I usually do is buy a pair of Victor Reinz head gaskets and a Fel Pro
performance gasket set for everything else. A SBF engine builder turned me
on to the Victor Reinz SG's. He was building several SBF's per week and had
a big long peg holding the Fel Pro head gaskets that he would give away free.
Based upon occasional problems he had with the Fel Pro performance head
gaskets, he much prefers the Victor Reintz performance head gaskets which
were originally designed for heavy duty marine applications.

Replacing the headgaskets and making sure the block and heads are flat
with the proper surface is the best fix but you can also try K&W Block
Seal (in the copper colored can) to seal up any porosity. We've used it
numerous times to fix leaks on everything from my dad's 1937 Chrysler
Imperial (overported block leaking into exhaust manifold) to a Rolls Royce
aluminum V8 (headgasket) to my sister's Chrysler minivan. The stuff works
when it's properly used. It's essentially a sodium silicate solution
(similar to egg preservative from drug stores). Since the 1960's Chrysler
and Jaguar (and likely other manufacturers) used the stuff to fix porous
castings. The K&W directions instruct you to get all the coolant
(including that in the block which means opening the block drains) out. It's
a two day process as you will need to let it set up for 24 hours. Follow the
instructions to the letter. Drain all the coolant out. To do this you'll
need to remove the block drain plugs then flush water through the system.
Re-fill with water and use a can of K&W block seal. Then run the engine and
drain again and let it set up over night. Silicate is soluble in cold water
but precipitates from hot water to form a glassy inorganic coating that adheres
well.

Dan Jones