I ended up getting some plastic check valves from McMaster. I will see how they do or hold up.
I bought the BMW bypass valve and did not like it. I considered making another bypass valve but after much thought I decided not to for the time being. Since the Cleveland and the 400 (which I have) are using an internal bypass which works relatively well I decided just to go with that. It would be something I could easily change latter if I decide to.
I am doing a few things a little different. I am one hose segment from finishing the coolant lines.
I am not really using a swirl tank. The high point in the engine outflow tube is ported to the bottom of the expansion tank. The pressure cap on the expansion tank goes to the puke tank. In the photo I am just waiting on my final hose and my thermostat to button it up.
In addition, in the tube which is the high point I have another fill cap. In the top of this fill cap I have a float controlled air bleed. This is something I am trying. We will see if it works or is a problem.
It comes from heated floor systems and I can tell from using it in my heated floor it purges air very well.
I expect it will help purge the last few air bubbles in the end when the manual purging is done. I expect it to work best when the engine is cool and UN-pressurized. It has a float inside. It flows air till the water raised the float and closes it off.
I expect each time I run the car it will likely purge a little air during the initial part of the run.
There is a hose fitting braised onto the cap. This hose fitting will go through a check valve to the top port on the puke tank.
