Have I ever mentioned how BIG of a PITA getting the door window is getting it out of a Goose???????
You can get the window regulator out by putting the window down almost to the bottom of it's travel....just to the point where you can get the bolt off of the power regulator to the chrome "S" bracket swivelly thing that bolts to the actual window.
I took it out the hard way once, tried putting it back in the hardway twice, two flavors...once with electric motor removed, and finally put the motor back in and got the entire power regulator back in REAL EASY cheesy!!!
Trick is having the window down to take that bolt out, then push the window all the way back up, tape it in place with some masking tape, and then you have lots of room to work with!
Make a drawing of the window motor wiring (three wires typically) and note colors and where they are connected. Digital pictures work great too!!!! This will help prevent "oops, crap, and oh sh*t" from happening!
Why was I doing this? I was tired of my old tired window track felts flapping in the breeze as the wife and I rolled down the road!
I also took this opportunity to remove the felt insulation from the outside of the door panel, and coated it all (most that wasn't coated already) with Eastwood's Rust preventative stuff....the black stuff. (also available in silver.
OK back to windows.....I did this job on left door a couple of years back and I was able to get the window out, not easily, but it did come out. Not so lucky this time!!!!! I didn't want to take the entire window frame out of the door....which would have made it much easier, but wasn't going there.....door frame fits fine to the body!
In the end, I just left the window in place, and worked around it. YES, PITA for sure!
The replacement "U" shaped felt runner material for the channels is slightly smaller than stock. What I found was almost a perfect fit, was the same stuff for a 67-68 Mustang. HOWEVER......you cannot buy the stuff in bulk.....so would need to order something like 4 to 6 kits to get enough long pieces (if they were even long enough......) to do the job.
I talked to one of the big Mustang repop vendors at Laguna Seca when I ran into him there....and he said that he gets his "kits" precut and packaged from offshore.....bummer!
I would have ordered a couple hundred feet.....cuz I think Panteras would use the same stuff......
Anyway, used the stuff from Pantera vender, cleaned the channels with acetone, which seemed to take old glue/silicon/whatever off very nicely as long as it wasn't too thick!
Couldn't lay hands on my "yellow death" adhesive tube, so used some black automotive silicon that I did have, laid a thin layer on the bottom of the channel and worked the prefit pieces into the channels and rubbed/rolled them in place with skinny finger and a screen door tool....
Readjusting the window track to my liking was a two day adventure.....but got it to where it now runs up and down much more smoothly!
Also got into the door latch and oiled or greased up the various pivot points for the interior door lock the exterior push button and now things work smoothly there as well!
My plastic water barrier was some thin plastic that I put in before but I had some thicker plastic available so made a new one and put it all back together tonight!
Finished the job off with new exterior door frame rubber trim (the stuff that sits in the top of the frame and contacts the body when you shut the door.
Will need to see how well everything seals up when we go for a ride next!!! But at least stuff won't be flapping in my peripheral vision and bugging the hell out of me!
Will post pictures later of some of the job....
Cheers!
Steve
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