..Some of Us change out our own Spark Plugs. Most of You Don't. For those who do, here is a Trick to make life much easier!
First, when I do the Plugs, I start with the Right Bank, cylinders 1,2,3,4. I want to start with the Hardest to reach First, so as I proceed through the Work, it gets Easier. I start by pulling all the Plugs wires, making sure they are legibly Numbered at or near the Boot. All out of the way I lay Deep over the fender wearing Flannel Pajama bottoms, so as to never scratch the finish. Starting with #1, I pull all 4 Plugs, so as to Compare. After gapping the 'Autolite 25' plugs EQUAL to .045", I Install all of the Plugs starting with #1. Put the Wires back on then go to the left side and start again with #'s 5,6,7,8. First the Hardest to reach #5. And remember Wires 5 and 6 tend to arc-over as they fire one after the other. If I remember correctly.
NOW, the Point of this posting. When installing the 'New' Plug I Highly Do NOT Recommend using a Socket to Start the Threading IN!! 9 times Out of 10...the Thread 'Naturally' will 'Want' to 'Grab' Crooked and Cross-Thread. While using a Socket the 'Installer' will Not have the 'Feel' to notice this, until it is Too Late. Especially when dealing with the Treaded Spark Plug bores of Aluminum Heads!!
I have been using this 'Helper' for decades! I Don't believe I 'Invented' it. But, I have never seen this posted on this Forum.
During World War II, in the Factories the Saying was "Easy Does It". If it does Not 'fit'... Don't force it! Something is Not right.
A 2" Piece of Rubber Tubing, gives You a good grip on starting the Plug, with the Fingers. You can FEEL the Threads Line-Up, with the Fingers and the Plug can Screwed, Smoothly, all the way into Snugged Up, THEN remove the Tube and Use a Socket to Properly Tighten.
Never try to start the Tread with a Wrench/Socket, just good advise born of Experience.
Life can be Much Easier.
All the Best!
