Reply to "Edelbrock heads"

> Your suppose to use Studs with Aluminum Heads! Never seen anyone use
> Bolts with Aliminum Heads!...

Most of the OEM's do as do many engine builders. Even with aluminum
heads and blocks, the OEM's often use bolts but many engine builders
prefer studs to keep from stripping the block threads.

> checked the Edelbrock head instructions and they recommend either high
> quality head bolts or studs for their aluminum heads. ARP recommends
> the same citing different advantages for either but does not say that
> aluminum heads must use studs, depends on your application.

The "high quality head bolts" typically come with thick hardened washers
to not gall the aluminum heads like standard head bolts may.

> I have the Motorsport A3 aluminum heads. I will have to dig out the 1983
> catalog to give you the part number but the fastener kit that was sold
> with them is a BOLT KIT, NOT A STUD KIT.

That would be the Ford Motorsport M-6065-A351 head bolt kit for high port
aluminum heads. I'm using the same kit on the dyno project engine.

> I'm not exactly sure what the advantage to studs would be but the
> disadvantage is that many engine compartments are too tight to be
> able to remove the head from the block with studs.

Many studs have an allen head recess that allows you to screw them out.

> Aluminum heads on an iron block are always a risk.

True, particularly in cold climates.

> the ROL gaskets are one time torque.

As are my favorite Victor Reinz but, with the disimilar thermal expansion
aluminum heads on iron blocks, it is still worth a re-torque and a periodic
snug. Paranoia is the engine builder's best friend.

> You must make sure that you use the Felpro "blue" teflon coated head
> gaskets.

I prefer the Victor Reintz 3502SG (for 351C), Nitroseal material graphite
on steel core. They are coated and go on dry and were originally developed
for high performance marine applications.

> If not short of a head removal there are some wonderful sealants I have
> used that may work, I have used them on my Imports, Iron to aluminum
> heads and ran 100,000 mi more on the engine's.

The stuff I use is K&W block seal (in a copper colored can) from various
auto parts stores. We've used it numerous times to fix leaks on everything
from my dad's 1937 Chrysler Imperial (overported block leaking into exhaust
manifold) to a Rolls Royce (headgasket) to my sister's Chrysler minivan.
The stuff works. It's essentially a sodium silicate solution (similar to
egg preservative from drug stores). Since the 1960's Chrysler and Jaguar
(and likely other manufacturers) used the stuff to fix porous castings.
The K&W directions instruct you to get all the coolant (including that in
the block which means opening the block drains) out, which won't be a
problem in your case. It's a two day process as you will need to let it
set up for 24 hours. Follow the instructions to the letter. Drain all the
coolant out. To do this you'll need to remove the block drain plugs then
flush water through the system. Re-fill with water and use a can of K&W
block seal. They have you run the engine then drain again and let it set
up over night. It will take two days to complete the process as you have
to let it set up for 24 hours. Silicate is soluble in cold water but
precipitates from hot water to form a glassy inorganic coating that adheres
well.

> Checking for straight is very easy.

Victor Reinz makes "carbon impression paper" for checking cylinder head
to block seal. You buy a roll, cut a rectangle out, punch bolt holes,
insert between the head and block, torque to spec then remove for
inspection. It used to be available through NAPA.

Dan Jones