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Reply to "Effort Reduction Kit"

That modification was probably done for Ford by probably one of their contractors such as Kar Kraft during the period when Ford was actually building the cars and not Detomaso.

It was done using the original production clutch.

If you could control those conditions now, i.e., use the original production car without the kit and with, the simplest thing to do would just be to measure the pressure on the clutch pedal with the pressure gauge that Ford recommended to Ford dealers for servicing the brakes of regular production cars of the '70s.

Many had customer complaints that pedal travel was to the floor and service mechanics being notorious for not liking text book instructions would use their left foot for measuring acceptable travel of the pedal.

If you could put your left foot under the pedal and the brakes were fully applied AND the car stopped, that was a go.


The only way you can finish this debate is to accurately scientifically do the test as I just suggested.

It seems totally illogical to me that Ford would go through the trouble of installing the effort reduction kit at their expense, if it didn't solve the criteria they had put forward?

Maybe that criteria is just being misinterpreted here?

This is really a coffee house debate at this point but frankly in my view there is no one here that has the credentials to question the solution?

Furthermore anyone here suggesting that it doesn't work and it is the reason for the inability to adjust the Pantera clutch, and take it out of the car is the solution, is just plane irresponsible.

One thing that has to be considered here that was not even mentioned is that the entire assembly height of the clutch package has to be compared to the original.

It doesn't matter if someone sold you the "supposed exact replacement" to the original.

There are components that likely just don't match up. For instance the length of the clutch cover fingers, a change away from the original flywheel OR the differences in the assembled height with the clutch unloaded.

The Pantera clutch is a "go, no go device".

You put the mechanicals at maximum travel, adjust the clearance between the disc and the plate to the minimum (.035 to .038") and that's it dudes and dudettes.

That's the way it was done then. That's the way you do it now.


If the clutch doesn't lock up fully when released then, at that point you need to look at only two other components. The slave and the master.

You can effect the travel of those two by changing their bores. You want the stock bores for the clutch to work like it was new.


Like it or not, the original clutch worked. This attitude that if the Italians did it and because of that the engineering is incompetent is just something that overall on this car has to disappear.

It is just not true.


It seems a more practical endeavor to go hunt for leprecons, mermaids and unicorns? That is just as relevant?
Maybe just stick to driving a hemi Checker cab with an automatic? I don't know?

Now if you don't mind, I have to go attack someone over there. I don't like her purse and I'm going to hit her with mine just to show her what a purse really should be? I hope I don't kill her?
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