Reply to "Engine Oil Testing Results"

I think what has happened is that there are so many superior oils available now that ranking them makes some look like losers and they simply are not.

It all depends on what you want. There are many to choose from. If you simply want the best at any cost, then go to the top of the list.

I look at it a little differently. I only need protection over a certain level.

I average that with cost. When I come up with the "weighted" values I go back to what I have used for the last 35 years. Mobil1 full synthetic.

I add one can of STP Blue per 6 quarts to raise the ZDDP levels and forget about it. I don't think you can buy that in California. I think CA banned it's sale there because of the high DDP content.

I still maintain that there is no reason to run 20-50 in a Cleveland. Particularly one that, let's get the number right now Doug, runs bearing clearances in the .0015 to .0020 (got it) vicinity. 10-40 or even 10-30 is fine.

Just watch your hot oil pressures. If the gauge shows 60 with a warm engine and you go and "let the boy run" and it comes back with 10 psi, then run thicker oil OR change the oil after each one of these runs BECAUSE you've just killed the viscosity of the oil.

The race cars do this all the time.

There isn't anything in the Mobil1 synthetic that is going to shrink your seals and give you phantom leaks.

Phantom leaks in a Cleveland are often associated with too high of a crankcase pressure.

I used to get oil puddles under the distributor with just running open breathers with my first Weber setup.

NEVER had a crankcase seal leak in any of my Clevelands using Mobil 1 either.

Mobil1 was just reformulated "recently" check the weights and specifications on them now before you buy.

DO NOT use RACE OIL on street car UNLESS you are going to change it DAILY.