Reply to "Floor jack and vehicle stands"

Hi Chuck,

The only real difference in jacking up a Pantera is the low ground clearance. Your proper lifting points will be the rear crossmember at the end of the 'frame' rails, and each side, just behind the doors, at the frame point where you will find the factory 1" holes that indexed the stock scissor jack. Lifting at these side points will lift the entire side of the Pantera. If your jack fits under these points, great. If not, as in the case with 2511, you will keep a couple of 2x12's to roll up on to give you the added height needed to insert the jack.

When lifting at the rear, bear in mind the sheet metal lip will bend/fold over if you don't use a 1x4 or something similar to spread the load out. The vendors sell bolt on/weld on metal pieces for the rear, and the front, crossmembers that keep you from deforming the crossmember metal.

I have placed 2511 up in the air as high as my jack stands will go with no fears. I locate rears at the engine mount plate with the three bolt heads, and the fronts on the angled frame rail sections just behind the front wheel wells, where you will find additional 1" holes.

In staggered steps, you can lift a side, insert jack stands - lift the other side, insert jack stands - return to side one and lift again, raise jack stands - do side two again - etc.

The side mounts are strong enough as-is to resist deforming, and don't show damage easily, as in the case of the rear crossmember area.

You can also lift front/rear in sections if you have reinforced the front crossmember.

I would recommend stout jackstands, not the tubular cheapies as a matter of normal safety.

For casual tasks, I highly recommend buying a $20 pair of the heavy wall plastic Rhino Ramps sold at the chain stores. They will serve well, and clear a small spoiler if you need to lift up the front end. Hanging holes in them are perfect for storing these hanging down from a garage rafter on a stout nail.

Hope this helps,

Larry