That's why I suggested Bob but his brother Don or Mike Cook would know also I'm sure.
You need to get this sorted out anyway since if you get someone else to change the oil for you they are just going to be confused as well. You have me confused already.
It was probably Doug Cook who put the engine together for Gary and they must have screwed with the length of the tube?
I remember when I had the Boss 351 in my Shelby, I could often hear the dipstick hit the bottom of the oil pan when I put it back in so exactly how the math is working out with this stick and the pan that you have is beyond me UNLESS it doesn't really have the capacity you think it does and you ARE overfilling the pan? That's for sure ok on about 1" of oil "over the fill mark" on the stick but more and you just start spinning the crank in the oil.
If you remember what I posted about the 428 Fords, Ford didn't have problems until they put the CJ in the Mustang? Then all of a sudden they were loosing engines under warranty because the engine would pump the pan dry at 6,000 rpm. Their solution was to leave the stock production oil pan in, put two more quarts in the pan, add a sandwiched in "windage tray" and modify the dipstick to show normal with the two more quarts. It worked.
In those small pans, that's about an inch higher then designed, if not more? Really close to spinning in the oil. Considering the results, it's safe to say that high a level isn't much of an issue?
With my car with the stock iron block and Aviad pan, I just fill it to the fill mark. I'm pretty sure that's 10 quarts right there and 12 for the entire system with the dual remote oil filters, about 10 feet of -10 hose and the oil cooler.
If I were you, I wouldn't even change the oil until it started clouding up. I run Mobil 1 and it's a clear to amber color new.
If you are showing signs of water vapors in the oil, then the oil isn't getting hot enough and you are over cooling.
Once it gets over 212 you cook the water vapor out of it. Some of the racers say 185 is good enough but that makes no sense to me?
Even if you like a 180 water temp or so, you should monitor the oil temp and try to get it over 212. 210 to 220 is a good temp to aim for.
I've got a thermostatic device, an oil cooler thermostat, in line that's set at 210f. That locks out the cooler. The oil cooler has a piggie back fan that comes on at 220 automatically.
I can't remember the last time it came on?
With the big pan and all that oil it takes a while to get hot normally.
This thing could probably run at the salt flats in the heat and not get hot?