The fuel and oil pressure gauges are Not running off the relays. Only the high-draw stuff, fans, lights, etc. are powered by the custom relay panel.
I spent the day removing, cleaning, lightly sanding every contact on every fuse and reciever tab. No grease, or metal protector this time. Corrosion happened REALLY fast with whatever I used before (Dielectric grease I think).
With the car OFF, I got everything back working. Most of the fuses were just corroded, so my taillights and brake lights I got back working.
The blinkers seem to be tied to the gauge fuse (#11) which on the sticker on the panel says is supposed to be for the windows right and left, so maybe some stuff has been changed around a bit.
It is fuse #11 that blows, and when it blows I lose blinkers, fuel gauge and oil pressure gauge I'm pretty sure.
The amp gauge moves ever so slightly, and continues to "work" even with the blown fuse.
Til now it's all been working fine. I did have the same items die before on me but I just spun the fuse and it all worked again, so I chalked that up to corrosion.
This is the first time it's actually blown the fuse like there's something wrong.
quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Your fuel gauge needed to be run off of an electrically relay? Really? Why? That makes no sense.
If the fuses in the panel are still in line with the gauges, what purpose does the relay have?
Sounds like some kind of an alchemist wired this thing. You might need to hire a witch doctor to fix it?
I had one but he got deported back to Haiti as an illegal alien? Sorry.