Reply to "GT5 flare installation durability question?"

Ron,

My deck lid has never chipped it's rear corners. This may be because I have remade so many of the box sections. I have seen this on lots of other cars though. I think the pins are a good idea. Or just some little rubber pads may be enough on some cars.

As for the base of the windscreen, this is a much more difficult area to strengthen. I have not looked at that area recently, but I think it would be necessary to cut some metal out in order to gain access for reinforcements. When my car was in bare metal, I ground out all of the lead at the bottom of the post, and reinforced it with the MIG welder as much as I could, I then put the lead back in. This is one area where lead is essential and plastic filler would crack.

My reinforcements with the MIG however where only really attaching the A pillar to the top of the fender, and not properly attaching it to the structure under the fender. In the future I am going to redo this area and make it very strong.

In most cases these stress cracks are only as deep as the paint or plastic filler. The steel and lead underneath is not cracked at all, it's just that the paint is not as flexible as the lead and steel. Another area I have seen hair line stress cracks is around the mounting point for the camber bar. Again, only paint deep. My car has satin black paint in the engine compartment, so you cant see it unless you get your head right in there. It would be a shame to see this on a body colour painted engine compartment, however. The way to fix this is to weld in a reinforcement plate from the wheel house side.


Another reason some cars have more cracks than others is nylon or polyurethane suspension bushes. these are hard on the body. I like rubber.


Gary, those cracks by the tail light are nothing to do with the bumpers. My car has never been 'bumped' and I have seen these cracks appear on cars with no bumpers and cars with Ralf Nader bumpers. You must address this area while it's in bare metal. It is not easy because the crack is right on the brazed joint. The factory used brazing because it is more flexible than weld. It didn't work in this area. You need to cut out the brazed bit and weld in some gussets from behind. Then seal it really well to stop rust.


If you have not already done so, I urge you to paint your entire car in two part acid etch primer as soon as possible. This will stick to the steel better than any "rust converter". You can put filler over the top of acid etch, but not before it is completely dry. I have seen media blasted cars flash rust before the body man has had a chance to put the acid etch primer on. I hate to see this.
Dont wait until you have addressed all the repair areas, you can always remove the primer in the areas you need to work on.
Forgive me if I am telling you stuff you already know, just sharing knowledge!

Johnny