Reply to "Hall electronic ignition package"

Thanks, George. I figured it would be the Duraspark but couldn't be sure.

Also thanks for the recommendation on the MSD all-in-one. I'm investigating the options for breakerless ignition. The first step will be determining exactly what I've got. I know I have a 6 series MSD box and the previous owner is pretty sure the distributor is still running points. That would indicate to me that they haven't been checked in a while. I'm going to remove the bulkhead for the first time this week to take inventory and have a good look around.

I've had some starting misadventures and this will give me a chance to begin sorting things.

Since I mentioned my "misadventures" I'll give a brief account.

With each start, regardless of engine temperature, the first crank sounds so slow and weak that I'm afraid the battery is going tits up. After that first turn-over it will crank hard and fast... for as long as I have to crank. A few days ago I was cranking for a good 15 minutes and it was still cranking strong when the motor finally fired, so I'm led to believe the battery is good.

Cold starts. I've got the Holley 750 double pumper with a manual choke installed by the previous owner. My first several efforts with the choke bared little fruit. But I've developed a routine without using the choke that seems to work well even with the car sitting overnight with ambient temps below freezing. I'll pump the gas 5 times, crank a couple of times feathering the accelerator and she starts. The idle is rough for a while and I have to keep 1500-2000 rpms for a few minutes to get it to settle into an 800 rpm idle without dying. Once she settles into idle it is lopey but consistent.

I checked the choke while it should have been fully open and it was sitting at about 45 degrees. I opened the rest of the way and haven't used it since. I'm considering removing it since I can start the car without it when temp is in the 20s.

Hot starts have been the real issue. I often have to give 5-10 cranks to get her to fire up. Pumping the accelerator several times seems to help some and once she fires I have to give her the gas and run the rpms above 1500 for a minute before she'll settle back into 800 without dying. No problems once we're running.

My neighbor is a retired Air Force mechanic and avid gearhead. His taste is more toward mid-year Corvettes but he has rebuilt a 351 Cleveland or two. He observed one of my hot start efforts and he suspects a timing issue or possibly a heat/vapor lock condition. We're going to check the timing later this week.

A few days ago I had a hot start experience that differed from all those preceding it. I cranked for at least 15 minutes without any sounds of fire. The very first crank was the usual death sound but she cranked hard and fast for the duration after that. I tried pumping and I tried dumping in case I had flooded (never smelled gas). Cranked and cranked but never heard any fire. I removed the air cleaner for a visual inspection and I had fuel squirting. Didn't seem to be a fuel issue.

Fortunately another car nut happened by to admire my Pantera. With his help I checked for spark at the drivers rear plug. He said he did NOT see a spark while I cranked it several times. He simply removed the wire and held it close to the block. I can't vouch for proper technique but he seemed to know what he was doing and he said he did not see a spark. He reattached the wire and I began preparing for my first trip on the flatbed.

We talked for a few minutes and I went back to give it one last try. Cranked a few times with nothing and then FINALLY we heard 1 pop of compression! I put the pedal to the floor, cranked and she soon fired up. As usual I had to run the rpms for a minute before settling into 800. For those first few minutes something sounded "off" about the idle but then it settled into the usual lope. The drive home was uneventful.

Once the car is running it is generally smooth and pulls strong all the way through 6k. I have noticed some jerk and hesitation with partial acceleration from low rpm. I've read that this can be a consequence of a generous-for-motor carburetor (750 on mildly tweaked motor) with mechanical secondaries as it runs through the lower rpms at low speed and light acceleration. Initially I had attributed all to this. Now I'm wondering if these issues are related?

I don't know the condition of the plugs, wires or distributor. The wires and coil "appear" bright, shiny new and I know the previous owner had a shop do some "freshening" in recent years, so the wires can't be too old. I'm going to inspect and replace the plugs this week. With my neighbor's assistance I'm also going to check the timing and condition of the distributor.

So the fun begins...