Reply to "Hall electronic ignition package"

The oem power to the ignition goes through the ignition switch. The ignition switch contacts were marginal with breaker points, an electronic ignition demands too much current for those contacts.

Over time the contacts get dirty and burned, this creates a voltage drop, which limits voltage and current to your ignition. The voltage drop across the ignition switch contacts will cause the contacts to heat up as the motor runs (current flowing through contacts) just like an electric heater. As the contacts heat up the voltage drop will get worse. Whereas a breaker point ignition will operate with low voltage (its performance will of course diminish) an electronic ignition will simply stop working when the voltage drops to a certain value.

My friend Doug's Pantera would die when he operated the power windows or turned on the headlamps. It was equipped with an MSD ignition. The fix was to install the new ignition power feed circuit that is pictured in my previous post.

There's a simple test. Get a long piece of 12 gage stranded wire & attach alligator clips on both ends. Connect one end to the positive terminal of the battery, connect the other end to supply your ignition in place of the oem ignition supply wire. Try starting the car. To turn the car off just unhook the wire from the battery terminal.

If the "jumper wire" resolves your hard starting, you've found your problem.

-G