quote:
Originally posted by zfett:
Well Looks like I do need new headers.... Need to pull and unwrap. ...which looks like a chore and a half....Bob
Bob (zfett), it's not that bad to get it done. Remove the passenger side splash shield and do those from below. The driver's side can be done like this: the forward header bolts at the heads can be done from over the top of the motor. The back ones can be accessed from below. Takes a 9/16" socket, I used a 3/8 " drive ratchet, a couple of bolts required a short extension, one bolt needed a knuckle, and one bolt had to done with an open end wrench. The 3 flange bolts are easy, the flange will twist around for easy access once the bolts are loose. Of course, gotta put her up on jack stands and take off the rear tires. Headers come right out the bottom, no problem.
I'd use a box cutter and cut back the wrapping on the headers about 9" to a foot and peel back the wrapping. There was a post in the Technical Questions and Advice Forum about wrapped headers. Search "Header Insulator". This topic explained why wrapping headers accelerates corrosion in headers due to lack of heat dissipation. The topic was within the last 30 days.
You'll probably want headers on both sides since both were wrapped. After 30 years, the headers are going to have some corrosion, even if left unwrapped. Jet-Hot Coatings has a process which applies ceramic coatings to headers to reduce corrosion.
Check your hoses while you're inside the fender well on the passenger side.... It'll take a couple of hours or so, if you're not a mechanic. I also recommend covering the clutch window hole on the bell housing so no nuts or bolts fall in there. That would be a bad thing to have happen. Hope all goes smoothly for you during this repair. - Ron
[This message has been edited by ron norman (edited 07-10-2003).]