lousbby posted:Hey Rocky, thanks for the reply.
I have never taken the console cover off so do I need to pull the stereo and guage panel to do that?
As for the tubes I am considering using copper pipe and fittings like household plumbing materials with threaded female 1/2" pipe to screw in 1/2" male pipe fittings that have 5/8" flared nipple to receive the hoses on each end.
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Louie
Hi Louie -
IIRC - I did this about a year or more ago... Easiest to pull the seats. Then there are 4 screws (maybe 5) holding the console cover (plus the stuff with the shifter gate, and the emergency brake enclosure.
My first headache was that I had to loosen up the whole lower part of the dash to get the shifter assembly box out. It wasn't just loosening up a couple of screws, and loosening the instrument panel, it was that whole panel had to shift to get some part of the assembly (I think it was my shifter box) loose.
You need to disconnect the shift linkage too - I think I loosened the U-Joint in the console. Make sure you mark the depth of the shaft engagement, so you don't have to readjust the shift linkage (much) later.
There is lots of stuff you will have loose that you can now clean up & relubricate - primarily the hand-brake, and the shifter box (which likely really needs attention).
Once that is out, you can get after the tubes.
I also thought I could make new tubes with 1/2" copper pipe and soldered connections. You need a hotter torch than a Bernz-o-matic (use MAPP gas?) and you can not make the correct angles with straights / 90* / 45* fittings.
I agree with Forest on the tubes. They are thick, and if you can just clean up (maybe extend) the original ends poking into the Engine Bay, that may be all you need to do.
But there are other opinions on other approaches. Ultimately you get to decide.
Rocky