My coolant is 50/50 (Prestone (I NEED the anti-freeze properties here) and de-ionized water) plus Norosion. I do have the brass restrictor plate installed under the t-stat. My fans are working well and turning in the right direction (pulling air thru the rad from behind). There is a LOT of heat blowing when the car is running hot, so the rad and fans seem to be doing their jobs well. One fan is thermostatically controlled (and comes on at a gauge-indicated 180°) and the other is switched manually at the dash by me. I assume (please correct me if I'm wrong) that at highway speeds, the fans are better NOT running as they would flow air at less than the speed of travel and thus reduce effectiveness of cooling.
Here is my plan of action:
• I will put back on the new 16 lbs pressure cap since the old RC82 unit is definitely NOT holding pressure (spews coolant at the tank neck when the car is hot).
• I will check/re-rout ground connections as needed
• I have ordered an air bleeding tool (similar to the Snap-On one Mark has) to assist evacuating air:
• I will drill holes in the thermostat
• I will quadruple check all my connections for possible air leaks
• I will re-bleed the system using the GPM™ (George Pence Method
) AND the air-evac tool• I will run the car long enough to verify if problem solved, and if not:
• I will take temp readings at various locations as recommended (I might do this even IF the problem is fixed so I have a future reference set)
• I will have the coolant tested for combustion gases (man, I don't want "positive" results for that one) which is an interesting test I had not heard of before.
If none of the above resolves the issue, I will be enjoying our nice Rocky Mountain Rumble tour from the seat of my comfy, quiet and air conditioned rental car (which I would upgrade to a Mustang from a Fusion). The other suggestions (head bleeders drilled, timing gear/tensioner/chain upgrades) will have to wait as I don't have enough time to address them before the tour.
You guys are the best!
Mark