Reply to "Ideal Engine"

To get the most form any motor you will need Pat Mical's headers & a good set of free flowing mufflers, like those sold by PI Motorsports.

You need to upgrade to electronic ignition if you haven't already done so.

Normally I would recommend a set of 2V size closed chamber Australian heads from a 302C motor. Apparently you are set on keeping your big port heads.

Your motor rebuild should include a head rebuild with one piece stainless valves, chrome moly retaners, Ford "pedestal mount" roller rocker arms. Some port & bowl clean up (mild porting) would also be advisable. (are you sure I can't talk you into a set of 302C heads?)

Zero deck the block, align hone, index the bores, etc.

Fordged pistons with dished tops, dishes specified to mimic the shape of the combustion chamber in the cylinder heads, shoot for 9.5:1 compression ratio. Good rod bolts, Romac balancer, RollMaster timing chain; typical parts found in a good rebuild.

A custom ground hydraulic roller cam is my first recommendation in camshafts. A Crane Retro-fit hydraulic roller cam is my second choice in cams. For a flat tappet cam I recommend the Comp Cams XE274.

You can spend $$ on an aftermaket intake & carb, or to keep the motor externally stock, use a 1972 Cobra Jet intake & Autolite 4300D carb.

Anything left in the budget, purchase a Scat stroker crank kit (fordged pistons come with the kit and with the stroker kit installed the oem big port heads aren't as much of a liablility).

Since you want the motor to look stock, I take that to mean alloy heads are out of the question.

cowboy from hell