Quote S.Hafsmo "Removing the leftover bleed screw should not provide much of a problem."
Such a stupid thing to say. This is what remains of the bleed screw after copious amount of time spent drilling and knocking out the remains. Fortunately I managed to save the threads in the caliper body.
Finding new wheel bearings did however not present any issues. There is a swedish company called Momentum Industrial which has a store a few minutes away, who had bearings and seals in house.
The seal is sized 44,45mm x 63,5mm x 7,93mm, which seems to be a somewhat common size.
Part numbers,
- SKF LM 11949/910/Q
- Timken K-67048
- Timken K-67010
Hub and caliper dismantled. The bores of the calipers seem to be in decent shape. I'll run the hone through them, just in case.
Paint removal,
After a bit of glass bead blasting,
Masked for heat resistant paint
I also tested the heat resistant paint for the calipers, but the result were not great at all. This is the Motip Heat resistant paint.
The girling calipers seem to have a rather rough and untreated casting surface.
I was hoping the curing procedure (oven acquired for this purpose) would add a bit of shine. I also tried to cover it with a layer of high temp clear coat.
But the result was possibly even worse.
This paint also has absolutely no chemical resistance. Which made the process of removing all this paint surpisingly easy.
This time I spent an insane amount of time removing casting imperfections.
And used Foliatec 2k epoxy paint. Which turned out great.
First attempt of a crossover pipe. Not satisfied at all, and it touches the wheel.
Revised crossover pipe.
Plenty of space.
The car is now possible to drive, and stop. Which is nice. A couple weeks ago I had my first test drive around the block, and these cars are just something else. A very satisfying experiance indeed.
Next up is a bit of electrical work.
