Reply to "lowered floor pan owners opinions please"

> IMO the dropped pans from vendors are not equivalent to the later factory pans,
> which are a flat floor from front to rear, whereas the dropped vendor pans area
> rear only section that angles back from the crossmember in front the seat,
> effectively just providng more rake angle.

I have the Kirk Evans 3" drop pans (he makes them in two drops, the 3" is bigger
drop) in both my Panteras. They cut through the crossmember and drop around 2"
at the front and 3" at the rear, providing both rake and drop. Here's a picture
that shows the drop at the front:

http://www.bacomatic.org/galle..._Stripped_1.jpg.html

at the front, you cut across the floor pan fore-and-aft frame rail, cap it off
(with the shaped leading edge part of the new pan) and then weld a pair of
heavy steel u-channels (upside down) to the floor pan. The outer u-channel
is in line with the old floor pan fore-and-aft frame rail. It butts up against
the pan on both ends. You weld it to the pan along both long edges and both
short edges. It then forms a load path similar to the original fore-and-aft
frame rail. Be sure to make triangular pieces underneath the car so the rear
rails tie into the pans.

With every seam welded and the pans tied into the original frame stiffeners, it
doesn't look like I've lost much, if anything, in the way of rigidity. Jacking
the car on one corner will lift it off the ground on 3 corners with no sag (doors
will open and close fine) so it seems stiff. I've not noticed any problems
driving it either.

I believe Kirk recently posted a new design he has but mine are the earlier version.

> IMO the later factory pans/cars are significantly better offering greater
> headroom than vendor dropped pans in an early car.

but the overstuffed seats can (or aftermarket seats) can use up the extra space
gained by the drop pans.

> Overall height is one thing, but a lot depends on where thwt height is i.e.
> legs or torso? I'd suggest try a later 9000 series car on for size.

Agreed. The type of seats also make a big difference.

> The pedal box spacer is good for compensating if your height is in your legs. I
> have a 1/2" one in the GT5.

That's on my list of things to do. I'd like to get more like an inch but the
spacer needs to angle the master cylinder down to clear the hood.

I'm very happy with the dropped floor pans. I no longer have to slouch forward
in the seat to clear the roof. The headliner is out of the car and my hair just
brushes the roof when I sit fully upright in stock seats. I also have a set of
'vette seats to try. I'm still debating whether or not to install dynamat sound
deadening in the roof when I install the new headliner. I'm 6' 5" with a 36"
inseam and can now extend my left leg past the clutch pedal until it's straight.
On long trips, the least comfortable thing is having to keep the right leng bent
to work the accelerator pedal. A spacer plate on the pedal bracket would reduce
the angle of the leg bend but I think the car needs cruise control. That would
allow me to extend the right leg, too. Also, the seat needs a longer headrest
brackets to put the pad behind my head, instead of at the base of my neck.

The sills are sloped and the passenger side seat is offset towards the sill
so it can clear the parking brake. With the dropped pans, the outside edge of
the passenger seat rubs on the sill, even with no sound deadening or carpeting.
I cut the spacers off both old pans and stacked them under the passenger seat
rails to raise the seat and it still rubs. Some seat re-shaping (notching) will
be required to permit removal of the spacers (unless you remove the parking brake).
Swapping the seat rails so the adjustment lever is near the console may also be
worthwhile. A bulkhead reduction kit would be nice, too.

Dan Jones