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Reply to "Mangusta engine build up info"

Dave, since I don't own a Mangusta, I can't help on the "bolt-up" issues you raised with the Edelbrock.
I have run that manifold and for a strictly performance perspective the Ford unit that Dan is recommending does have an edge.
I do own a 68 Shelby GT350 and can tell you that I had somewhat of a delema with the engine also.
I didn't want to do box stock, 235hp with it. 68 was the first year of the 302.
What I did with it was to use the original block. The early blocks are much better cast then the '80s 5.0 versions. Those newer blocks are not as well cast and break things like mounting ears, etc. It is also said that they are higher nickle blocks then the 5.0's (here we go again)Use the erra appropriate block. Maybe find a 68 Mustang 302 block and heads.
The second thing that I did was go with a full tilt($$$) port on the original heads and use 1.94/1.60 ss valves with manganese bronze guides.
Solid lifter camshaft with roller tipped rockers (so they would fit under the original covers), screw in studs with guides, etc.
The final thing and probably most signifigant was to make it a 347. I am very, very happy that I did.
Of course I admit that I do sometimes have problems with control. I put a Blue Thunder, 2x4 "high-rise" repro on for an intake, and a pair of holley 600's.
Other then the 2x4's it looks stock. It even sounds stock with the 351w cast iron exhaust manifolds (fully ported also). Does it run stock? Dave this is me?
Would I lie to you? Of course it does (n't). 450hp wasn't stock at all.
Incidentally if you have a real Boss 302 block, in particular a 69 with a C8FE casting number, insure it for a lot. That is a "Trans-Am" block. Even if it is a later block it is still equivelent to the Motorsport A4 block. The A4 block is a "reissue of the Boss 302/ Trans-Am block.
Last edited by panteradoug
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