Reply to "Need Parts Recommendation"

Motor Mounts:

The solution for motor mount bolts that snap their heads off is not to use lower grade bolts; higher grade bolts that won't stretch, flex or loosen would be better.

Header gaskets:

Ever notice that header gaskets tend to be real thick? Thats because some headers are cheaply made, the flanges distort when the bolts are tightened, or the flanges are "wavy" from the manufacturer. So you need a gasket thick enough to fill in the "gaps" between the head and the header flange. Copper looks like a good material for header gaskets, but it may take 2 gaskets to fill in a real bad gap.

Header fastening:

Here's where I've gotten creative with the McMaster-Carr catalog in decades past.

My solution for fastening headers, IF the chassis and header will allow for it, is to use studs, thick flat washers (aka fixturing washers) and Flexloc (aka Flex-Top) lock nuts. Set the studs in the heads with Loctite and you have a fastening system that will never come loose. The thick flat washers help prevent distortion of the flanges when you tighten the nuts. But to use studs you gotta be able to pull the headers away from the heads far enough to clear the studs.

Most headers have bolts that are impossible to get a wrench or socket onto. The 12 point header bolts Julian mentioned are the usual remedy, but Allen head bolts work just as well. Another method to cope with this issue is to use studs and extra long nuts, known as coupling nuts. You can size the length of the nut so it will stick out far enough that the header tubing is not in the way. A coupling nut is not a lock nut, so you loose the locking capability, but in tight spots its worth the trade-off.

There are extra high temp antiseize thread lubricants on the market too.

-G