Reply to "New top front arms"

Randy.
The reason I used a tie rod end rather than a ball joint is that I wanted the ¾” UNF male thread.
This is so I could set it up with our “quick turn” adjuster nuts of the same size.
So to adjust camber I don’t need to pull it apart & rotate the joint.
I just back off the lock nut, turn the adjuster nut & it cranks the top joint in & out.
(Can do a similar thing with the rear pivot point joint & obtain some caster adjustment without having to use shims).
The internal construction of an automotive ball joint & tie rod end is the same.
The only down side to reaming the top of the upright may be the hole may end up too big & the taper pin sits into the hole too far.
Not 100% sure on that as it was a while ago that I did the job.
Yes you’re right; there is at least a 1 degree taper difference.

Here is a picture of my new lower arms.
Dimensionally pretty much the same, just made out of tube & better quality material, as well as being a much stronger construction.
The only real difference is the sway bar mount point as my car is now running a race car type splined bar with alloy lever arms & drop links.

Regards,
Tony.