Comments to your setup - take them for what they are based on what I found works for my car:
1. 180 degree thermostat - correct. 160 will not help in any way. Will make worse. Been there, done that.
2. 7 lb rad cap - why ?- should be 16 lbs. A higher pressure cap HELPS prevent overheating.
3. Converted overflow to pressure tank - why? I don't follow how that helps in the cooling system working better and to me seems to further foul correct operation and make something simple very complex.
4. Hard line from top of rad to tank "self bleeding" - if system is vacuum bled properly, not needed. Just another line to leak and source of an air pocket.
5. Gauge temps could be off for many reasons - agree with other comments - if you want to know real temps, get an IR thermometer.
6. Overdrive pulley - IMHO - not needed - another vendor's wet dream.
7. Fans blowing from front - fine. (They are spinning the right way right?). They are wired off the battery and getting plenty of voltage and putting out probably 3000 CFM? 200 as set point?? I have mine on a manual switch. On for slow driving and off when I hit the highway - keep it simple.
8. As several old timers have said to me over the years "So your car is overheating? its it puking out the cap? If it isn't , then it isnt overheating". So is yours puking coolant at the cap?
9. Why does car appear hot after driving it - heat sink from hot motor and coolant being very hot and NO air moving through the radiator when stationary. Mine will be at 210 if I drive it a while and then pull into the garage and let it sit and idle (which I don't).
I think keep it simple on these cars and the cooling system.