@LeMans850i posted:Running without a brake booster will be a workout 🏋️…
If you go with more aggressive brake pads will increase the wear on the brake discs considerably… there is no free lunch…
I learned that with my Corvette… needed brake pads AND discs due to massive wear so I went back to original setup… 💰
This is true. I was observing street cars at a club high speed event and genuine "vintage" Trans-Am cars at the same track, the same day.
The T/A cars literally went through three sets of brakes, some four IN PRACTICE.
The street cars in the high speed events, none.
I have the Porterfield R4s pads and also still have what we used to describe as "semi-mettalic heavy duty pads".
I actually think that the "semi-metallic" pads are better UNLESS you are going vintage racing.
Under those conditions, the semi-metallics will glaze the rotors. The R4S will just coat the wheels in grey dust as they literally disintegrate.
My opinion on the Pantera useage is to run the "semi-metallics" in the rear for both uses.
Switch to mounting the rear rotor OVER the axle flange so it is simpler to service.
There it is also adventageous to use the two piece assembly. Seperate hat and rotor. That will help on reducing the cost in the rear under a "non-sponsered" racing condition.
The front pads depends on the useage. You don't need the Porterfields for high speed events. Semi-metallics are fine for that.
I have original Ford service pads for both the fronts and rears here. I honestly can't determine what they are but they do not look like the "semi-metallic" compounds I have for my GT350's.
On those you clearly see the metallic content in the compound. The Pantera pads you do not.
So really it is a "trial and error" basis. Unfortunately these days "trials" are very expensive.
Sorry, I do not know the coefficient of friction on any of the pads. The fact is, no one lists them and the manufacturers do not readily give you that information.
One of the reasons I went with the 69 Ford T-bird brakes in the front is that the parts are still serviced. The entire rotor is around $70 so compared to burning up a Brembo or Willwood, it is a better cost break.