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Reply to "OIL PAN REMOVAL"

To MJ- the two nuts at the ends of the crossmember are the front lower a-arm attach clevises. After cutting out the crossmember AND its side-tabs spo the rail is flat, what I did was to weld caps onto a piece of 2-1/2" aluminum water pipe of the right length for my car. Cut 1/2" slots in the end caps about 2/3 of the way up so that when the a-arm nuts are slacked off, the crossmember can be slid up behind them, then rotated so the slots point downward. To tighten the nuts down, the bottom of the pipe must also be relieved for open-end-wrench clearance. As most of the loads on the crossmember are in compression, using the a-arm nuts to retain it seems to work just fine (mine was done 11 yrs ago).
To CJ- the std oil amount for passenger car 351-Cs was 5 qts plus one in the filter. For Boss 351-Cs with the same pan, Ford advises 6 qts plus one in the filter (they began losing lots of performance motors under warranty to rod bearings, so the oil volume was officially increased). Note that there are three different stock pans possible for your engine, all identical from the outside. The variations were in the pan baffles included. None are as good as some aftermarket pans from the vendors.
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