quote:Originally posted by accobra:
I could be wrong but the only motor I ever seen recommend STRAIGHT 30 or 50 motor oil was a welding machine. isnt it missing the cleaning properties or some thing like that.
So if you break in the motor with 10W30 its possible to switch to SYNTHETIC no problem.
Coincidently, when I switched to SYNTHETIC in my 351C a piece of permatex used as thread sealer on the oil pick up came loose and jambed the pump. Not 100% sure but I have my theory to why. The other why is WHY someone would put thread sealer inside a feamle thread. In my case it hardened and over time or CHANGING to a defferent oil made it come loose.
Whats the properties that synthetic has besides not breaking down with heat ?
Ron
One of the racing recommendations on the C way back was to braze the oil pick-up to the pump. I think the design has inherent problems such as vibrating loose and rotating away from the oil?
Race cars use strait weight oil. Multi is considered not good.
The polymers in the multi break down under load and you wind up with a 10 wt oil.
In drag racing, the oil pressure will go from 100 at the line to 10 when you roll back into the pits. That's not considered good.
The weight has nothing to do with the detergents or other addatives. That is the blend. Every manufacturer has it's own blend. The industry standardizes the grades. LSMFT. Less smoke more fine tobacco.
In the old days we used Penn State because it was from Pennsylvania grade crude. That was the best natural oil known.
Everything today is a blend of something and something. No more Penn grade.
Synthetic doesn't break down. Natural oils do.
Synthetic is much slicker. Synthetic sticks to the parts.
Shall I go on?