Reply to "Mangusta 8MA1088 - What are the casting numbers of the original block and heads"

koji tachi posted:

PANTERADOUG

thank you for your pics. I didn't find out the mark 2v or 4v, but of course this must be 4v. My friend worry about coolant leak due to corrosion. I will buy the head with 4v mark.   

Where is the leak in the head located? I initially had no intention of using the AFR 1388 heads. What happened was the left side head developed a coolant leak through the exhaust port.

Normally Ford cast iron is pretty easy to weld using stainless 304 or 308 welding rods. This head just kept getting worse, the more we welded it.

What happens on Ford castings is that there is always a "seam" in the casting. It's as if they pour the bottom in the mold, flip it over, then pour the other side. This results in a visible mark resembling a "seam". Those are weak/thin spots in the castings and can rot through.

The old casting process had no way of xraying the castings and examining if contaminants had gotten into the castings. From what I see, they generally do, and they can have an impurity in the casting, usually the size of a green pea.

You can fill the hole left by the pea dropping out of the casting but it is usually surrounded by additional contaminants like a carbon build up. You have to luck out in being able to remove it to get to the good metal so the weld will stick to the good iron.

I couldn't. The heads are here, and will go with the car in the future but that one head is a gone'r.

The point here though is that these heads are 50 years old. What you/we are seeing as far as rotting through, is going to become more and more common.

 

This happened in May. I'm still looking for a good 4v head with a close casting date. So far, no good. Lots of 2v heads around though but the 4v heads have dried up recently.

 

I got tired of waiting and at least for the mean time am using the AFR's. Nothing wrong with just bolting on 100hp even temporarily?

 

There is an early 4v head on Ebay now for $450. The casting date is from July or August of '67. For me, the date doesn't work, plus, figure on rebuilding it. That's easy $1,000 finished, plus shipping, with the possibility of rotting through as well?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-...wCU1Yokcn:rk:32:pf:0

The seller says it's a "non-smog" head, which is true, but the answer is it is from an automatic transmission car. Only the manual transmission cars had the exhausts drilled for the air injection.

 

The AFR's cost $1,700, in the door. A better deal and a quicker solution for me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last edited by panteradoug
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