Reply to "Pantera 06927"

Wanna go further towards good handling, OZ?
1)- two 5/16" thick flat bars between the rack and the trunk floor mounts removes most of the bump steer. You can just slip them in (with longer bolts) or, by cutting down the tops of the split clamps in the areas that touch the bolt heads (that mount the rack) by 5/16", you avoid needing longer rack mounting bolts. If your car has the late rack-brace between the rack & right side subframe, the cuts avoid needing to redrill two extra holes in the frame.
2)- add polyurethane bushings to the front a-arms. These tighten up the handling with no extra noise inside, and if you order offset flanges on your bushings, it adds to the max caster possible and vastly reduces tramlining on crowned or rough roads. Offset upper bushings add an extra 1-1/2 degrees negative caster for -4 degree total per side. Even more (to 6 or 7 degrees!) is possible by also using offset bushings in the lower a-arms (biased in the opposite direction), but remember, steering effort goes up with extra caster.
3)- gas-charged Konis can be mounted upside-down for a little bit less unsprung weight, with no downside to this positioning. Set the car with the nose down a little (2 degrees is enough) for better high speed stability.
4)- a 7/8" rear anti-swaybar will reduce the car's understeer. I recommend using polyurethane bushings on the center mounts and sphere-balls on the ends. The stock front bar size is fine- also with poly center bushings and sphere-balls.
5)- add a square-bar brace with a clevis across the bellhousing, to replace the non-adjustable stock one. This doesn't help handling much but does help prevent paint (and sheet metal!) cracking from rear body flex with giant tires. Be sure you choose a bar that has long enough ends to jam firmly into the back of the stock bar mounts; this allows the whole weldment to take cornering loads instead of trying to deliver them through thin sheet metal tabs with slotted holes.
There's more that can be done, but that should get you started. And you can do it all yourself with hand tools, and it's all reversable if by chance you don't like the results.
Note- all this assumes a completely stock suspension; you may already have some of this stuff on board. And wheel alignment should be checked if by chance you do the changes piecemeal. Let us know what you think of your improved handling. You'll be ready for Bathurst in 2011!