Reply to "Pantera 06927"

Excellent start!
Re- sphere balls: the angles the rear swaybar ends go through in driving on 'nomally' bumpy roads causes severe binding-up of the swaybar with poly bushings on the ends, because the poly is not resilent enough to accomodate such angles. The result is sometimes cracking of the steel bar mounts on the rear a-arms, or between the lower a-arm ends and the tubing. By adding a ball on the bar end, the bar doesn't bind up, and the driver can actually feel the bar working.
If you can't immediately afford sphere-balls (front & rear), use rubber bushings on the bar ends with poly in the middle, until you can buy some of the ball ends.

On adjusting the bay brace: if excess rear subframe collapse has occurred (2 or more degrees of negative rear camber beyond what stock shims can adjust), the brace can correct it, but not all at once. The trick is to lift the car and tighten the clevis as you did until you get that 'creak', then lock things down and drive the car normally for a few days. Then after the sheet-metal has 'adjusted' to its new position, retighten 1/2 turn more, lock the clevis and continue enjoying the car. Check periodically to see how the rear camber readjustment is progressing. Doing this gradually, most or all of the subframe sag can be worked out of most Panteras without damage. But try doing it all at once and the fenders will buckle.

On locking the front camber adjustment: there are various mechanisms to keep the camber adjustment where you set it, but the simplest is to make a set of 'filler pieces' the same shape as the space between the bolt shank as-adjusted, and the inboard end of the slot in the upper front a-arm. The little (4 per side) filler pieces will be captured between the washer on the adjusting bolts and the ball joint carrier. Due to the weight of the suspension and gravity, it seems the bolts will slide inboard quite easily but never seem to slide outward, so that makes it simple to block possible movement. I used 3/16" thick aluminum scrap, hand-filed to shape for my fillers, but steel would work too.