quote:Originally posted by Joules:
My alignment gauges are in degrees, as are virtually all I have encountered.
You can do it the string method, I do for my race car setup, but I have purposes built string bars for each car front and back and ensure strings are parallel. Tire walls are not all equal so it's better to do it from the wheel rim edge and knowing the distance between the two you can easily calculate the angle.
Degrees are far easier and more accurate as they are not affected by tire size as you are simply measuring the plane of the wheels to parallel.
Julian
Yes but with a radial tire, the wheels literally could be at spec and the tires could be toed out because of the soft wall nature of the tire wall.
Bias tires would be more accurate but consider that it is the tire tread that needs to be toed in.
The tire also needs to be warmed up, not stone cold AND the tire air pressure needs to be at spec. Some put 50 psi in them just for alignment purposes.
This is why the toe in is an approximation. I find that it is better to have it set at 3/16 to 1/4" total rather then at 1/8".
Oh, you also should ballast the car.
Where were those tables when I needed them George? Those and the little portable truck scale? Hum? Nice.
Castor is a real PITA to do. Anything will help.
The only problem with the level, Comp2, is the floor needs to be level at all points. I've got the laser level too but it is a pain to use.
Mark the floor where the tires go, then get those points all level to themselves, then put the laser away. Mine probably needs batteries. I haven't used it in years?
Just convert the degrees into inches or mm. Put a bolt through the level (thread the level) and adjust the bolt to what you want for camber and lock it in place. Then you can just use it for a "quick check" by holding it up to the wheel.
SOH, CAH, TOA, on the geometry, or is that trig? I think that works out to 1/2" on the camber on a 16" level?
With 6 degrees of castor, don't you get wheel to fender contact in the front of the arch and need to limit the tread and cross section of the tire to eliminate that on a slab side car?