@rene4406 posted:Here is what I received:
It is not exactly the same as yours but since it is to adapt I hope it will work.
A confirmation please, the short shaft goes on the rack side and the long one on the steering wheel side?
Yes. You have that correct. The motor on yours is taller then mine.
The first thing that you need to do after you remove your existing steering column is to hold that one up under the dash to confirm that the motor will clear everything inside of the dash.
I am pretty sure that mine was listed as from a 2003 Yaris. Mine showed immediately that it was a very good fit.
You are going to reuse the Pantera D shaft, universal joint and connecting yoke.
The output shaft on the Yaris needs to be shortened. I ground a flat spot into that shaft so the yoke could orient itself securely. There won't be any splines left on the shafts. They are in the wrong place so don't worry that you realize they must be cut off. That is correct.
The top of the motor input shaft is the tightest fit. You want to leave as much of the Pantera splined shaft (steering wheel side) in place so that it does not affect the ignition switch assembly and interlock to it.
The mounting bracket for the motor you need to make. That isn't complicated and you mount that to the motor where the Yaris bracket attaches to.
There is a control box from the Yaris that you do need also. I think that I had to buy that separately? The Brits have a habit of completely disassembling everything from the system rather then selling it all as a package.
I think that is because in this case there is substantial demand just for the control box? I don't know enough about the Yaris to understand why but in a way it is a benefit that you can get another control box separately if need be?
It is not a difficult column to build and the challenges you will soon discover are really rather minor.
In my case, I had already moved the steering wheel as close as possible to the dash to gain more leg room so in retrospect on my conversion that was the cause of the close fit of the input shafts.
There you are going to need to make a judgement on where to cut the shafts.
IF by chance that you find you are too close to the dash, you can just relocate the mounting bracket to the dash and move the steering wheel out.
The D shaft that goes into the rack is plenty long enough to still engauge with the tube in that case. Check that but I think there is about 2" that you have to play with as I recall.
If you look at the pictures on how I received mine and what the finished shaft came to be, you will see that the motor and that little control box is basically all that will remain when done.
Don't cut any of the harness off of it. Those plugs just plug into the other control box and I have seen those sold separately as well so apparently people hack those off without knowing what they are doing?
The Yaris is a strange little car and probably the original buyers of them are even stranger?