Reply to "Pulling the transaxle need advise."

You'll probably have to temporarily jack the car a bit to pull the starter (and probably a couple bolts going through the flywheel cover plate into the bellhousing, and maybe unclip or unbolt e-brake cables underneath). I jack the rear crossmember but use a wood block to distribute the load. I put jack stands under the longitudinal frame rails, just line up so as not to bend the welds/crimps etc.

After you've disconnected those, you should be able to let it back down. You'll pull the transaxle out the top.

I don't think I have ever supported the engine--should be pretty well balanced on its motor mounts. But certainly wouldn't hurt to put a block of wood under somewhere safe.

You'll of course still need to disconnect the half-shaft bolts, the shifter rod coming into the ZF (I just push out a roll pin there), the side mounts from the ZF I think if a -2 model or the rear mount if a -1 model, and the large nut encircling the speedo cable connecting it onto the ZF. You'll also need to unbolt the AC condensor assembly from the car frame (don't disconnect any AC lines) and set it over to the quarter panel etc. onto a blanket. I have had to also remove the condensor grill but that's just 4 bolts, to get rearward clearance to pull it free, but you may not need to. And you'll unbolt the clutch slave somehow, can probably remove a couple circlips to slide out the slave cylinder once you've disconnected the linkage arm from the splines on the throwout shaft. And of course the bellhousing-to-block bolts but read below just in case you can pull without the bellhousing.

Once it's free I've used slings and a hoist to help pull it out, straight over the rear of the car, just be careful to not hit the decklid, the latch stuff and so on. Could be done with just human effort but weighs over 150 pounds so may be dicey, though with slings and boards and 2 or more people can be done. Most I think pull it complete with bellhousing. Assuming it's a -2 model, there are a couple internal bolts that IF a former owner left out, could be pulled without the bellhousing and save some of the above removal time (starter, slave, the couple flywheel plate bolts).

I don't think you need to grease the throwout bearing but probably not a bad idea to replace the pilot bushing or pilot bearing, that you would grease somewhat. Which to use is a whole other debate I won't address. If you go with a bushing, nonferrous is recommended, that Marlin Jack on here machines & sells if you need one. I'm not aware of any bushing option if it's a -1 (see tag on lower driver's side of transaxle's shifter box, which # it ends in). Assuming it's a -2 you now have choices apparently.

Some others may have a correction or two, but it's not that hard a project.

Hope this helps,

Lee