Reply to "Radiator Choices - Cooling System Info"

When I first bought my car it was a factory system with hood vents and it ran at about 195 and suffered from temp creep. It would continue to creep up one degree at a time until it would boil over at the lights and then boil over at low speed etc... I have incrementally changed my system and can report on each change. At that time I was running the car back and forth to Tampa about an hour from here, the car ran very well and was right at home OTR, it seemed like it didn't even know it was running other than the temp creep. The first thing I did was stolen from David Archabalds Sebring car, I took the vent screen off my hood and left the hole wide open, I then put a ramp in front of the vent hole and it created a low pressure vacuum which pulled out more air. That one mod got a good five degrees which I really, really needed at the time. That single first mod would allow me to run to Tampa for an hour and then make it light to light to the property before it creeped up over 210 and boiled over. After that I built the motor, bought a radiator, did all the tricks, and my car runs cold and happy. I run in the low 180's and even in the summer I seldom need my fan on short trips... My car has not seen 190 in years (shorter trips when it's 1000 degrees in summer) and I have ice cold a/c with the condenser up front, and she's a daily driver ( 3, 4, 5 times week). 425/450 HP

Parts List:
Mccullough Fabricating Radiator (sp)
Spal 16" fan (sucker)
Hood vents w/ramp
SS cooling tubes
Flow cooler anti cavitation water pump, double gaskets
The correct thermostat
and the Head tank mod

This combo is the answer, at least for me. I have not turned my spal fan on since last september...