Reply to "Rear A Arm Bushings"

BD,

Before you start you need to check the ball joint for wear while it's still together. the best way to do this is to jack the back of the car until the rear wheels are nearly off the ground and then get a friend to put a large lever bar under each tyre and jack it up and down while you look to see if you can see any play in the upper ball joint and also put you hand around it to feel any play. While you are there you also need to check the lower shaft and wheel bearings for wear. To do this jack the rear so that both wheels are off the ground and the hand brake is off. Then hold the wheel at 9 O'clock and 3 O'clock and try to rock it side to side. You will need a friend to watch and feel for play while you do this. If you fell any play at all it will need rebuilding. It only takes a tiny amount of rear wheel steering (play) to make the car feel unstable under braking. Now hold the wheel at 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock to check for any play in the wheel bearings.

If your lucky the upper ball joint will still be in good condition. Mine have never been replaced and have no play at all. Your first challenge is to pop the upper ball joint taper out of the upright. Dont use a fork type ball joint splitter because this will destroy your rubber. From memory I had trouble getting my lever type splitter in there so I made a tool using a 12mm stud connector like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M12-...&hash=item3f1d0e2d6b
I them put a dimple in the top of a 12mm bolt on my lathe so that it can press against the bottom of the ball joint stud without slipping off. The bottom of the stud connector sits on the drive shaft coupling, you may have to wedge a peice of metal under it so make it sit straight and then wind the bolt out pressing upwards against the ball joint stud. You have to wind it very tight and then tap the side of the upright casting with a hammer while holding a heavy lump of steel on the other side, this have always worked for me.

Once it's off you will be able to asses the condition of the ball joint further - it should not be loose. Assuming it's in good condition you will have to refinish the arm with the ball joint still in place. I dont think it's possible to remove the ball joint from the arm without grinding the top off it. Strip the paint and rust off without using a sand blaster and wet paint the top arm (powder coating ovens get too hot for ball joints!) You would be wise to powder coat the bottom arm because it gets hit by stones from the front wheel.

If you solder a piece of 3/16" brake pipe into the threaded end of a grease nipple and then flatten the end you will be able to stick it down the side of the rubber boot and fill it with grease.

If you need to replace the wheel bearings dont do anything until you have asked the forum, there is lots to know!

Johnny