Reply to "Rear hub adjustment"

I've repaired quite a few stub axles and a few others have, as well. Unless that epoxy product is something very new, I'd be surprised if it lasts thru the warm up drive. The ball bearing manufacturers specify a 0.0005" press fit to keep the soft axles from being indented by the much harder bearing races. As Larry said, the loads are truely incredible and there's heating involved in controlling 300 horsepower going tyhru a drive system. When I weld up damaged axles, I use Stellite C- a nickel/cobalt rod thats used for hard-facing. It can't be single-pointed on a lathe; it musth be ground to size with a tool-post grinder. Other owners reweld the mild steel axles, turn them slightly undersized and have the axle hard-chrome plated, then finish ground. Both methods work.
The two big points: use METAL- as tough and as hard as you can find, and finish the axle to a 'medium' press-fit. You cannot estimate the right diameter either- you need a 4-decimal micrometer and you need to take the measurement at room temperature as steel grows enough with heat to foul up the measurements. Finally, stock '71-up factory axles WILL break in heavy use with big tires, always at the point where the axle flange transitions to the bearing surface. Aftermarket axles and the 'offshore' replacements now being sold are much stronger in this area.