Reply to "Rear Suspension Rebuild"

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SwenDog:
I'm ready to tackle my rear suspension this winter on my '74 and would like some input. The front A-Arm bushings were replaced by the previous owner with polyurethane and zerk fittings.

THIS IS GOOD.

1. Are the spring rates on the Aldans OK or should I go 450/550? (or some other combination)

I WENT WITH 550/650. IT'S STIFF DRIVING DOWN NORMAL ROADS, BUT WHEN I AM HARD ON IT, IT DOESN'T FLEX AS MUCH AND STAYS A LOT MORE LEVEL THROUGH HARD CORNERING.

2. Assume I should go with poly A-Arm bushings and zerk fittings for the rear.

YES....IT COMPLETES WHAT YOU STARTED WITH THE FRONTS.

3. Since I plan to go to 17" rubber (335) in the rear, should I consider extended upper A-Arms or are the stock uppers OK?

YES, IF THEY ARE ADJUSTABLE FOR CAMBER. THIS IS DONE BY ROTATING THE TOP OF THE A ARM EXTENSION IN OR OUT. OTHERWISE YOU WILL BE ADDING WASHERS TO THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME AREA THAT THEY MOUNT TO. IF THEY ARE POSITIVE, YOU WILL HAVE NOWHERE TO GO. I AM RUNNING 335/35'S IN THE REAR. I WAS GETTING SOME INSIDE WEAR. I PULLED THE WHEEL, BACKED OUT THE ADJUSTABLE A-ARM 1/2 TURN AND AM GETTING EVEN WARE THROUGHOUT THE REARS. THIS ALONE PUTS A BETTER FOOT PRINT ON THE REAR TRACTION NOT TO MENTION BETTER TIRE WARE.

4. Are the spherical swaybar mounts really worth the extra $100/pr?

ABSOLUTELY.

5. What about the rear spindles? Again, an additional $180. Is it money well-spent while I have everything apart?

YES.

I've read the numerous articles on A-Arm bushing removal. Is it worth the $300 (at least one of the vendors wants for labor only) to remove 8 bushings and install 8 new ones?

IF THEY NEED TO BE DONE, DO THEM RIGHT. THIS IS NOT AN EASY TASK, BUT IT'S SOMETHING THAT NEEDS TO BE DONE IF YOUR SHOWING CRACKS OR SIGNS OF UNEVEN WARE. THIS WILL, ALSO BE CORRECTED BY THE RIGHT SPRING RATES AND ADJUSTABLE A-ARMS FOR THE MOST PART FOR THE FUTURE ONCE DONE, RESULTING IN LESS WARE, EVEN WARE, BETTER HANDLING AND MORE CONTROL.

I do understand that once the shocks are initially dialed-in that I should bring it in to a shop and have it corner-weighted. I have a shop near me that has done this on Pantera's.

BALANCE IS IMPORTANT. THE WEIGHT BI-ANCE SETS UP YOUR ABILITY TO ENTER FAST AND EXIT HARD. ANYTHING LESS IS PANIC CONTROL AFTER THE FACT.

Anything else?

THE 3/4" SWAY BAR IS GOOD THING. IS IT SOLID OR HOLLOW ?

ALSO, HOW DO YOU HAVE YOU WHEEL HOUSING SPREADER SUPPORT BAR SET ? IS IT PUSHING AGAINST THE INSIDE FENDER WELLS ON BOTH SIDES OR JUST SITTING IN THE CENTERING PREDRILLED HOLES ? IN ORDER FOR THIS TO WORK CORRECTLY, THE MOUNTING HOLES SHOULD BE DRILLED OUT ENOUGH TO ALLOW CONTACT WITH EACH END OF THE WHEEL HOUSING TO ACTUALLY GIVE YOU THE SUPPORT YOU NEED TO EACH WHEEL HOUSING. THIS AGAIN, BALANCE AND SUPPORT TO EACH WHEEL.