Reply to "rear upright bearing"

quote:

Originally posted by Edge:
I converted my rear uprights to taper roller.
Machined up a sleeve for the inner bearing, press fitted & scotch keyed in place, (shown in orange on the Solidworks drawing below).
I had to make alloy “bolt on” seal housings for each end.
Bearings are pre-loaded using the axle nut which holds the drive yoke in place.
The nut was custom made with an exterior shape a series of 12 x half holes.
The yoke is drilled & tapped in one place with an M6 thread.
So when you pre-load the nut you line up one of the 12 half holes with the tapped hole in the yoke & screw in an M6 cap screw which prevents the nut from un-winding.
I had to re-machine the billet axles as when I received them as the shafts were oversize.
So I re-machined the axles with a slight interference fit & when assembling the bearings onto the shaft I first froze the shaft & heated the bearings.
But it is still possible to move the bearings for final adjustment with the adjuster nut, although some force needs to be applied.
This ensures that the original Detomaso issue with axles spinning within the bearings & wearing grooves in the axles will not occur.
Taper rollers are far superior to standard ball races for load carrying applications where much of the force is axial as well as radial.
I pre-packed the bearings but back that up by a grease nipple in the upright between the bearings.
I fitted Wilwood rotors & hats to the outside of the hub, seemed a natural thing to do for convenience whilst it was apart.
The attached drawing also shows the fitment of the 930 CV joints.

Regards,
Tony.