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Reply to "Ride hight"

@marlinjack posted:

...Heim Joints?? Are You building a Racecar?

I HAVE Absolutely NO Bump-Steer at speed on the Freeway. And I have Multiple Cockpit Videos to Prove It! No misdirection of the Pantera, No steering wheel Movement, And NO need for a 'Correction' in the Steering, when hitting Severe Bumps, multiple times!

All I did, was to Install after-market shocks (Hall), adjusting the height I wanted, make sure both shocks were set Even (Dial Calipers), test drive to settle the springs, re-check height...After, I installed a Pair of 3/8" Stainless Steel Bar 'Anti-Bump-steer' Spacers under the Rack. I use to Machine these, and a few of You have these in Your Panteras. That's all I needed. Of-course, get a 'front-end alignment'.

I don't get all of the Complications of suggestions going on here? You don't even know yet, if you have bump-steer.

A few points:

Teflon Squeezes Out!

Doug is Right! With a 'Lowered' Battery Box, things get very tight around the Steering Mount Bolts.

The Most Important and 'Delicate' set of bolts in the entire Pantera (rack mounts), and one would put 3 aluminum Shims Under them?? Not Rigid, and prone to slipping and loosening, Not to mention Corrosion. As a Machinist...I say, one would be 'Out of Their Minds'!

You're going to do what you please, but keep it simple. The More complicated you make it, the more Likely the Components will NOT 'Compliment' each other. KISS

Good-Luck with it!

MJ

...had to come back and mention, I had previously installed the TRW Racing Steering Rack, long ago sold by Roland in Germany. It has a 10% Faster Ratio. Works Beautifully, and I don't care about any immeasurable increase in steering effort.

I did the shim installation a few years ago and with this thread I was just under the car checking dimensions, and components, etc.

I recently installed all new poly bushings and flanged 12.6 bolts and locking nuts.



On the rack mounts, I did have to clip the corner against the battery box and change to an Allen socket screw/bolt but I do remember having to remove the battery box in order to access the bolts.

I also noticed that I needed to dimple the sheet metal on the battery box where the rack brackets are. It's one of Hall's stainless steel louvered boxes.



I don't notice any steering wheel jerking on the bumps either but admittedly I HAVE NOT measured toe changes with suspension travel. That is a big project to accomplish and was deemed at the time, unnecessary.

So I'm ok for now without the Heim's and considering that the combination of parts necessary to do the swap over is just not available, that kind of ices the cake at leaving the entire thing alone BUT I still want to do adjustable shocks (double) and springs. My Koni's are still in there.



So maybe the adage of "if it ain't broken, don't fix it" applies here?

Last edited by panteradoug
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