Everything would have fit just fine with the stock window hardware btw. I didn't need the Vader Window Regulator kit to make room, it was just handy to do them both at the same time.
I bought that Summit kit in particular because I like the brand and it included a set of emergency release cables as well. The selenoids have 50 lbs. of pulling power which is overkill for the Pantera. 35 lbs. would have been plenty, perhaps even 15 lbs, but it looks like Electric Life doesn't use smaller selenoids in most of their kits. I didn't use some of the items in the kit, so it might be possible to pick up only what you need and save some money. I'd have to tally it up though.
To install in the Pantera I first removed the metal rod that connects the interior door handle to the door latch. This leaves holes at both ends which you can now use to mount cables. One cable goes from the selenoid to the door latch, the other goes from the interior door handle to the same door latch (replacing the metal rod that was removed).
I decided to mount the selenoid down low towards the front of each door. This keeps the weight low where you want it, and it also keeps the cable almost perfectly in-line with the door handle and latch. I bought a piece of steel flatbar at Low's, measured and cut a couple strips for each door. Drilled two holes in each for the selenoid bracket. Bolted them together and welded to the door as seen in the pic below. I did make slight modifications to the kit's bracket to buy myself a little extra clearance for the window.
Once the selenoids are mounted and the cables are attached, all that I needed to do was wire them up to the control module. The module appears to be part of an alarm system, and as such, most of the wiring that you see in the top pic is not needed. Not sure if you could actually finish wiring everything else up and have a full alarm system or not. For the door poppers, you only need a ground and permanant hot connected to the module. There are a couple relays that need to be hooked up that send a power wire to each of the selenoids.
The selenoids ground through the mounting bracket, so the only wiring there is to connect a power wire.
I'm not using the door thrusters as the weather stripping pops the door out far enough to grab the inside of the door.
I looped into the other cables with the emergency release cable, and weaved the other end through the doorjam and out the inner front fender through the hole in the firewall that the radio antenna wire escapes through. If I ever don't have power (or leave my keys inside the car), I can still pull that hidden cable to get into the car.
So now when I walk up to the car I hit button 1 on the controller and the driver's door pops open. If I have a passanger, I also hit button 2 on the controller. Buttons 3 and 4 could be used for anything else. I don't have mine hooked up to anything yet, but was thinking about buying a couple more selenoids and hooking up the hood and decklid.
Here are a couple more pics showing the mounted selenoid and two cables attached to the door latch. I'll shoot some more if you're interested in seeing anything specific.
Oh, now I don't need an interior door lock either (the one that comes through the top of the interior door panel) so I removed mine and will weld up the hold before we put the new door panel on.
