Reply to "shear pin on Distributor"

There are two weak spots in that area. The first as you found is the roll pin in the distributor gear. To fix it add a new stock roll pin, then a SECOND smaller roll pin inside the first one, as a reinforcement. Do NOT use a multilayer spring-pin as they do not tolerate shock loads well. Once that's done, the next weak link is the oil pump driveshaft which looks like an allen wrench but in fact is soft steel and will twist about half-way around before breaking. A broken oil pump driveshaft will not stop your engine, but bearing seizure will! Milodon and others sell a $15 chrome-moly-steel oil pump driveshaft. All this occurs because Ford 'gearotor' style oil pumps are efficient, non-pulsating, require less power to pump oil but are extremely intolerant of debris in the oil. Much of the debris is remnants of the stock umbrella-type neoprene oil seals, which turns into hard gritty plastic over time in hot oil. Eventually, this stuff works its way past the screen on the oil pump pickup, enters the pump and stalls it momentarily. This stalling cracks roll pins, then the pump driveshafts. Needless to say, I prefer teflon valve seals..... Sounds like the pump is probably just fine but the pan (and probably the whole engine innards) badly needs a thorough cleaning, not just an oil change. There is no way to check pump quality without removing and disassembling it. But to check & replace the pump driveshaft, the pan & pump will have to be removed anyway. It is possible to remove the pan in the car if you're willing to do as much work as it takes to pull the engine. To me, an engine & tranny removal is easier and more sure. Then, once its out, go in there and cut the crossmember under the engine and make it removeable. You'll have to also cut the e--brake bracket and make that removeable, too. Then the pan can be pulled in the car. Most Pantera owners have already done this mod.