quote:Originally posted by jb1490:
When you push the piston into the cylinder with the bleeder open, you are just displacing the fluid out of the bleeder screw and not back into the system. The return spring should push the piston back into the slave cylinder until the adjustment screw "bottoms out". If the pin were removed from the push rod, you should be able to push the piston (with some effort) all the way into the slave cylinder until it bottoms. The brake fluid would be displaced back into the master cylinder reservoir. There could be something blocking the fluid flow from properly returning to the master cyl. The master cyl push rod might be adjusted too long, or there could be something inside the bottom of the slave cyl.
The correct length for the stock slave cyl push rod is 3.07" to 3.09" (~ 3-1/16" to 3-3/32"). It is measured from the center of the eye to the end that contacts the piston. I don't know if it is the same dimension for the long throw slave.
jb1490, I think you may be right, fluid is not returning to the master for some reason. This is making some sense now, because remember I could not vacume bleed the system at the bleed screw like I could on my other cars. Which to me could mean there is no opening at the master for fluid to flow freely back into the slave when the clutch pedal is released all the way. So maybe the rod at the master is adjusted too long like you say. I tried pulling on the pedal some and I get maybe 1/4" where I can pull it back and I see the master cyl bolt come out just slightly, but maybe it isn't enough. But I wonder what is making the pedal stop at it's highest point, whether it is the pedal mechanism itself reaching some max setting within the pedal mechanism or if the master itself is already all the way out or not. I suppose the only way to tell is disconnect the master cyl rod bolt by the pedal and turn the bolt so that it gives less rod length. Geez you gots to be a freakin engineer to figure some of this stuff out. At least I am learning something (maybe).
If to try this, it seems I need to free up two spots by the pedal in order to allow space to trun that nut coupling on the master cyl rod (see photo with blue arrows). I hate this part, those areas are so hard to get at!
But there must be some fluid moving back to the master, otherwise the clutch arm would never return back at all, no?
