The Top Slide has a Engraved Protractor!
...For Years on the Job, I have often said "The DIAL Indicator Does NOT Lie!!"
On any Machine that is used and 'Warn-In', The Micrometer Dials on the 'Handles' are Useless, for Back-Lash, Only ONE Direction must Be 'Loaded', and used.* This is where I discovered...there are 3 'Zeros', Zero from the Minus, Zero from the Plus, then In-Be-Tween those Two Points, we have the 'Dead-Nuts' ZERO!
The Indicator Dial WILL Be inaccurate, Itself, When the 'Work' Gets HOT and is Machined, then cools down Later! And, Also, Not accounting for 'Tool Push', and tool wear! Very Small Measurements MUST be 'Snuck-Up' Upon! Most of the Time, I come to within 0.001", and Then Polish to Exact Size, where ANY 'Going-Over' (Undersized) Will Ruin the Part.
We must always Know that Every Amount of Movement on that Dial, is Doubled as the Lathe Machines it Off.
* When I first Started for the Company...I worked to 0.001", on a Lathe with a Backlash of 0.019" "The Dial Doesn't LIE!!", to Those Who are Experienced and Know How to Use It!
Re-Posting This:
PANTERA - GT40. Oilite Bronze Pilot Bearing Installation Instructions. 351C to ZF-2
First: Clean the Snout of the Transaxle Input Shaft, and Test-Fit this Bearing onto the Transaxle Shaft. If the shaft is Free of Damage, burrs, dirt...the bearing will slide-on, Smoothly and with Precision. If the Finish on the Steel Shaft is Not 'Smooth to the touch', Polish It with 'Crocus Cloth' ONLY! Polishing Cloth, The Finest Grit You can obtain.
Next: Clean the Crankshaft Bearing POCKET, of all dirt rust Debris, OIL, BUT Do NOT make it Larger!
The Bearing must be Hammered Straight in Square, and DRY. Use NO Lubrication! Using a hand held 'Sledge' hammer, Heavy!, NOT a Carpenters Hammer (too light). AND Using a block/piece of hardwood, IN BETWEEN the bearing and hammering...start the Bearing in Straight and True, There is a 6 degree Chamfer to help in Alignment. If it starts Crooked, STOP!! and pull it out and start again. Using the Wood on the Face of the Bearing...Hammer the Bearing Straight-In UNTIL Fully Seated, You'll feel IT and STOP! The Bearing will Protrude Aprox.1/4", It will NOT be Flush with the Crankshaft Flange.
Do NOT Hammer directly on the Face of this bearing. (You May see a 'Sliver' of bronze peel-off, this is to be Expected, as there is a .0050" 'Interference Fit'. .0025" Per side, This is Necessary to keep the Bearing In Place during Hard Shifting. Bronze is Very 'Slick'!) If You Hammer Directly Onto the Face, You will Destroy any Chance of the Transaxle Shaft Sliding-In!!!. That's a Warning!! Here's Another and Be advised, if the Crankshaft IS Installed in the Engine...You are Also Hammering on the 3RD Main Thrust Bearing!!! GO EASY. It will Not Take a Lot of Force. Just before Bolting up the Trans, Smear 3 Drops of light oil onto the 'Transaxle Input Shaft Snout', At the bearing contact area. This is so the bearing does not start 'Dry'. Although...as Oilite wears/gets warm, a Thin Oil Oozes-Out of the Pores. DO NOT Carry it in your pants pocket, it will leave a Stain. Congratulations!! You have just 'Custom' Fitted a Bronze Bearing to Your 351 Cleveland Crankshaft!
There is a Specially Machined 'Inside-Chamfer' at the Lip of the Bearing. This Specific Angle Mates-Up with the Angle On the Snout of the Input Shaft. What It Does, It Kicks the Shaft Up Into Perfect Alignment. Just Slide the Transaxle Into Position, NO Surprises!!
