I heard about the potential for collapse of rubber hose at the water inlet location sometime after I'd re-plumbed my own car 15 years ago.
I am going to posit that the short amount of ss pipe we remove (4"+/-) for substitution of the molded rubber 90 at the bend, compared to replacing the whole ss water inlet adapter tube (about a foot) with a molded hose is likely why we haven't suffered any troubles. The other two cars we've re-plumbed with ss lines were also done similarly and have not shown any signs of cooling distress over several years of operation either. The photos above are of car 4 receiving attention.
After JBs comment on the issue here, I made a mockup to test this and found it all but impossible to collapse a length of hose between two rigid nipples 4" apart. It can be deformed a bit, but you can't squish it flat.
I'll admit that I don't get her out as often as I used to, (Miss P hasn't been the only horse in the barn for a while now), but 5 HPDE days at the NHMS (200+ miles on track), and 25,000+ road miles later, presumably overheating would be the manifestation of the issue. It hasn't happened. On an hour plus ride on a hot August afternoon in heavy traffic the temp needle will creep up a bit, but that's it. Once moving again, it recovers quickly and she has never barfed a drop of coolant
My cooling system is tight. During assembly I fitted a schraeder valve and a pressure gauge to the engine block temp sender port and charged the whole system. I chased leaks until it would hold 15 PSI overnight. To this day, even after a winter of sitting, when I remove the swirl tank cap it makes nice little sucking noise that confirms it's held a slight vacuum all that time.
YMMV, Good luck.