Skip to main content

Reply to "Temporary Studs for Cylinder Head Installation"

...there is one more Warning I must add, concerning Head Studs installed in the Cleveland IRON block. The 'Instructions' recommend screwing the studs into the Block 'Finger Tight'. I did not like this as when torquing the Nut onto the Head and stud, there is nothing to prevent the stud from screwing in further as one is trying to obtain a final torque. I chose to screw them in and with a rachet (using the jam-nut method) , tighten the stud up, 'Snug'.

The warning here is...if the stud were to be installed and Torqued beyond this limit, there is a great chance of breaking the Bottom of the Bore Into the Water Jacket of the Block! This would Not be a Problem when using Head BOLTS. Some of you may have already found after removing the head Bolts and Head, one or more Bolt Holes, have leaked Coolant! The Major reason Studs (and possibly Bolts) should have the Threads coated with a massive amount of Sealant before installing into the Cleveland Block. Note, Teflon Tape Won't do the Job.

...I Would Change Over to ARP Head Studs Again without Hesitation! A Stud is just More Rigid, Stronger set-up, with More Threads inserted into the Block, than a 'Bolt'!

MJ

Last edited by marlinjack
×
×
×
×