Reply to "Vague steering, need help!"

JC, assuming the rack bushing has been changed to bronze and you have proper 90-wt lube in the rack housing, if your Pantera still has stock rubber a-arm bushings, you may get vague steering just from rubber bushing compliance. By changing to polyurethane, the vagueness goes away. And conveniently, urethane bushings can be had in offset versions which will increase your caster (tilts the spindle back towards the cabin). Offset bushings in only the upper a-arms will increase caster from -2.6 to -4 degrees and permanently stop tramlining with wide tires, at rather low cost. Even more negative caster (up to -6 degrees) can be had by using offset bushings in the lower a-arms as well. But steering effort will then be increased to the unpleasant level at around-town speeds.
Bump-steer can be lessened by adding shims under the rack mounts; the Factory did this as-stock in mid-'73, so check to see if shims are already in there. If not, be aware that shimming not only moves the rack down, it also moves forward due to the mount being at a 45 degree angle to the ground. Fwd. rack motion changes Ackermann toe-gain, which then contributes to understeer. In addition, new shims require 4 longer bolts to hold the rack in place as securely as stock, and the frame will need new holes drilled to replace Bill Stropp's rack-brace bracket going from rack to frame.
A less invasive and more elegant way to correct bump-steer is to remove the tierod ends and substitute 1/2"-20 SAE female heim joints- which screw directly onto the metric thread steering rods. Simple washer-shims between the heims and steering arms changes rod angle & thus bunp-steer, with none of the rack-shim's drawbacks. With close-to-zero bump-steer, the tie rods will be horizontal. The angle of the lower a-arms at either end tells one nothing about steering geometry, by the way. There are kits to correct Pantera bump-steer this way, but they invariably have you drill the tapered holes out of the steering arms. Again, a better way is Speedway Motors' tapered stud ($4.95/pr) that uses a Ford taper on one end and a straight 1/2" thread for the heim on the other; no drilling. Finally, all heim joints should also run neoprene heim-seals for weather protection, available from Speedway for $10/pk of 6. They also stock the heims. All this is common, tested dirt-track racing stuff available since the '70s.
Lastly, your understeer can also be corrected by adding a 1" rear swaybar in place of your 7/8" rear (or by going to a 3/4" front bar); a larger rear bar than front lessens understeer. Adding sphere-balls on the outboard ends of both bars allow any swaybars to work much more smoothly without binding. I've written many articles on front end mods that can profitably be done to Panteras in the POCA newsletters over the years. ...and I test all such mods on our '72 L for many miles before recommending them. Note that ALL the front end work described here will need a toe-in correction as the last step.