The feeler gauge goes between the valve tip and the bottom of the roller. That's the clearance you are measuring.
The Ford shop manual shows an adjustment order. I use it.
Others say just adjust each valve as it comes up on it's firing order.
The Ford order, although more cumbersome, compensates for variations in cam timing.
On a mild cam it isn't so important. On a more radical it becomes more significant.
I'm not going to argue either way since with solid lifters, either method will get you where you want to go.
One thing that no one here has mentioned, probably because so many are too young to remember the "old days" is that with solid lifter cams you can dial in a little more bottom end or top end depending on what the clearances are set at. The maximum variation either way being about .002".
Tighter means more top end, less tight more bottom end. I doubt that your camshaft would be even noticeable either way though so "aim" at the manufactures specs.
Considering what I just said, it should become apparent that the specs really in effect are "approximate"?
First off, you do this with the engine off and not running. Secondly, if you can figure out how to keep this engine hot while you adjust the valves, all of them, you must have gotten access to NASA over the weekend, because while it is POSSIBLE it is very improbable to do.
Just do it on a day when the temps aren't supper cold like we have here in the northeast in our Siberian "spring time".
If you can get 70 to 75 F, then you're pretty close. Most laboratory test temperatures are attempted to be standardized at 70 degrees.
The number you are aiming at is going to be the spec set by the cam manufacturer. Doesn't matter much at all, hot or cold.
They say .020, then .020 it is.
After bringing up the valve to adjust, place you .020 feller gauge between the tip of the valve and the roller.
At this point IF the gauge just slides in AND you can just barely turn the push rod with your fingers, leave it alone and go on to the next valve.
There is no point in backing out the set screws and re-tightening them. The go/no go on these lifters is really about .001". Look at that feeler gauge in the assortment. It's thinner than a sheet of writing paper.
If the gauge won't go through at this point, then they are on the tight side, particularly if the engine is at "room temperature". Then you've got to go through the readustment procedure.
"(A) Iron block and iron heads: Cold lash = hot lash setting plus 0.002” (B) Iron block and aluminum heads: Cold lash = hot lash setting minus 0.006” (C) Aluminum block and aluminum heads: Cold lash = hot lash setting minus 0.012”
A & B I agree with EXCEPT Compcams told me .004" for the Cleveland and .006 is a BB Chevy. I never had an aluminum block so no opinion on that.
My Pantera 351c engine calls for .022 Hot. It has aluminum heads on a cast iron block. Stainless steel roller rocker arms on steel rocker arm studs.
The gap on the lash will GROW as the engine gets hotter. Comp cams says that number is very constantly .004".
That means I need to set the COLD GAP at .018". That will give me .022 HOT.
I would call them again to verify before you do it?
My iron head 347 is different. It calls for .022 hot and is set at .024" cold. Both seem to be just right?
In the case of something like a Ford 289hp with solid lifters, check them in something like the 12,000 to 15,000 mile range. If they start to sound louder than normal then it's probably time.
I don't see how you can notice that though. The noise volume of your engine at idle with the deck lid open might be in the 86 to 90 decibel range? Mine is about 82 depending on the angle I read it at.
Your setup with the added mass of the SOLID roller lifter valve train, mileage was not a serious consideration on adjustment intervals? I would think you might NEED to check them every 2 or 3 thousand miles? It's really very hard to say.
"Your mileage may vary".
