Reply to "Wanted: 1 inch swaybars front and back."

Broken anti-sway bars often occur right at the point where people mistakenly weld anti-travel retaining rings on the bars. That weld is a dotted line that says 'break here'. If you must, a tack-weld or tack-braze minimizes heat damage to the high strength steel. I make my own bars of 0.120-wall 4130 steel tubing, bend them cold and use split clamp-rings to keep the bar from moving sideways. Hollow bars are slightly weaker in action than solid bars of the same OD. A 1" solid rear bar often overwhelms the rear bar mounts or the rear subframe, so 1" solid bar action may turn out worse than the optional 7/8" GTS solid bar, due to frame flex.

And as Garth says, use sphere-ball mounts on the outer ends of both. Adding poly bushings to the outside of front or rear bars causes a bind that either overstresses the bar or the attach strap on the rear a-arm; one or the other WILL eventually break. With sphere-balls, you can actually feel the bar action!

FWIW, I use a hollow 1" rear bar and a hollow 3/4" front bar with 245-50 x 15" fronts (8" Campys) and 295-50 rear tires on 10" Campys. Handles fine on street or track and the bars are less than half the wt of solid bars.